VUE

e choice to return to one's roots is never easy. I mean that not literally, because Chef Anthony Bucco was born and raised in New Jersey, but figuratively in regards to the soulful turn his culinary career has taken. I say this on the basis of his new restaurant, Felina, which by no means takes a backseat to his illustrious past, but rather takes on a looser, less precious persona that I think serves both him and his food well. If you've been following the chef scene in New Jersey, you already know who Bucco is. For the less food-obsessed readers, he once ran the kitchens of Uproot in Warren and Stage Le in New Brunswick, before reopening the historic Ryland Inn—an internationally- recognized dining landmark—and most recently, held the title of Executive Chef at Restaurant Latour before stepping down last year. To put it simply, no one is as familiar with the state's culinary landscape or has had more of a hand in its evolution, than him. Now Bucco has, for the first time, become a chef-restaurateur in Bergen County, opening up Felina in Ridgewood just a few months ago. e menu is Italian in nature, full of pastas and vegetables that highlight seasonality, sustainability and utilize the offerings of nearby farmers and suppliers. Bucco says the dishes at Felina "deceptively rich," but I insist they are deceptively simple and their intentionally terse descriptions support that sentiment. e space itself is warmly-lit, done up with a mix of reclaimed wood and industrial finishes. e dining room seats 120, consisting of an 18-person bar area, exclusive chef 's counter with its own tasting menu, a retired bank vault for private parties and there's also a soon-to-be-open rooop bar. Unlike e Ryland Inn where there's a narrative spanning over 200 years, Felina's newfound identity was one that only longtime friend and business associate Frank Cretella of Landmark Hospitality could cultivate. He balanced a once nondescript office space with wood flooring and exposed brick to make guests feel right at home, in an urban- meets-Italian countryside kind of vibe with steel countertops and a modern, oversized light fixture hanging atop the bar. "When you come to Felina, we've essentially created a story that we want you to believe existed before we ever opened," Bucco explained, "And that speaks volumes to Frank's ability to see something that didn't previously exist." F E L I N A —Chef Anthony Bucco gives his newest restaurant the farm-fresh treatment of Italian cuisine. B Y A B B Y M O N T A N E Z V U E N J . C O M 134

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