VUE

he Felina "brand," as Bucco calls it, also consists of Chef de Cuisine Martyna Krowicka who he brought with him from Restaurant Latour, beverage director and Iron Shaker-winner Christopher James who's studied under the likes of famed New Jersey mentors like Chef Tom Colicchio and Jockey Hollow's Chris Cannon, and seasoned vet Beverly Lacsina who leads the service team. Felina, compared to establishments like Restaurant Latour or e Ryland Inn, is very much a restaurant of today. Yes, they share the same fine dining principles such as impeccable service and a strong attention to detail, but there's a lack of formality that I find refreshing and have observed being pioneered by many new restaurants popping up around the state. In this more casual, downtown Ridgewood setting cra cocktails get to shine just as much as the food coming out of the kitchen. James' beverage program at Felina is supported by a heavily Italian wine list and a lineup of technique-driven cocktails featuring lots of bitter notes and citrus, not overly sweet simple syrups. e Breakfast Martini is an appealing take on a famous drink made with lemon juice and orange marmalade. He's also torching a cedar plank for Felina's version of a gold Negroni with St. George Dry Rye Reposado, Del Professore Bianco and Avèze. Suburbanites can find other fun variations on familiar cocktails including an Italian twist on a Venetian Mai Tai using Nardini Mandorla (made from cherry juice and bitter almond) and blood orange liqueur. But if there's anything that unites all of Chef Bucco's projects, past or present, it's his respect for ingredients. ere are several bright and fresh appetizers to choose from including Prosciutto di Parma tossed with blood orange segments, arugula and pine nuts or the tri-colored roasted beets with housemade ricotta, fennel tuile, beet juice reduction and flakes of sea salt. My favorite, however, was the artfully arranged black bass crudo which Chef Bucco expressed will change according to what's available. e fish is treated simply with a marinade of white soy, olive oil and lime juice accompanied by dehydrated black olives, seaweed tempura, radishes and black olive caramel. V U E N J . C O M 137

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