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e smoked paprika-crusted creste de gallo or "rooster's crest" with pork sausage, roasted garlic and kale falls under the Primi category of the menu, and is reminiscent of a Sunday supper at grandma's—that is, if she was hand-making her own pasta and sausage from scratch. e dish reflects an understanding of Italian-American cuisine that doesn't so much reinvent tradition but rather riffs on a forward- thinking sensibility. "If there's a dish to me that speaks to that 'Italian-American' culture it's this one," said Bucco. Each ingredient is in perfect ratio to one another; ribbons of wilted kale, crumbled sausage and perfectly cooked pasta that holds up to its hearty counterparts. at's not to exclude Felina's other smartly varied pasta options including lasagna made with mushrooms, thyme and caramelized onions; duck bolognese sprinkled with hazelnut gremolata; and rigatoni with guanciale, tomato and Calabrian chili. For mains, Bucco's seasonally-inspired style of cooking is most evident in the already favored day-boat scallops with apples, parsley root and kale sprouts; air-chilled Amish chicken served on top of a bed of fregola finished with swirls of salsa verde; and Berkshire pork with roasted cabbage and creamy polenta. In addition to a few customary desserts—tiramisu with lemon sponge, an olive oil cake with orange marmalade— there's something on the menu that reads unfamiliar. At first glance the budino evokes a pudding, coming to the table small in size but robust in its offering. e texture falls somewhere in between a custard and a mousse while the flavor is rich in an ode to Nutella. Each spoonful is divided by silky pudding, whipped cream, salted caramel sauce and crunchy cinnamon streusel. Call it what you want, the budino comes together on the tongue like the best chocolate cream pie and graham cracker crust you've ever had. In a way, Felina picks up right where Bucco le off. And while the new restaurant is a departure from his fine dining past, the contemporary yet accessible atmosphere is what makes Felina feel like a homecoming of sorts. e menu is still refined, emphasizing ingredients that are sustainable and locally sourced—they're just toned down in style (and price) for the everyday palate. ere's also no doubting the technical skills of Chef Bucco's kitchen crew or service staff, who keep the place running like a well-oiled machine. But whether by design or happenstance, Felina is all about heart and as far as the food is concerned, the focus is heavy on feeling.

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