At Le Jardinier in Midtown, a
terrarium appears at the table. Except,
there aren't any spiny succulents
inside. A scoop of olive oil ice cream
floats atop a pool of pink strawberry
mousse, dotted with edible flowers
and crushed basil granité. It's almost
too pretty to eat, and yet I dig in.
Everything about Le Jardinier
calls for your imagination. From the
intense artistry behind their plating,
the "upscalification" of humble
ingredients to transporting guests like
myself from the gray streets of New
York City to a green-hued, light-
filled culinary oasis. Summer squash
shows up as whimsy spirals next to
rosettes of Montauk fluke. Almonds
and chanterelle mushrooms conceal
a zucchini half with bright orange
romesco sauce setting the plate
ablaze. It is an enchanting display of
nature, but its significance speaks to
our changing culinary climate.
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