VUE

The first indication of a high-quality diamond is its col- or, which refers to the inborn coloration of a white diamond. Naturally, the absence of color constitutes a greater value be- cause it allows increased light to pass through and emits a stronger brilliance. According to Nancy Schuring of Devon Fine Jewelry in Wyckoff, "A diamond's color grade is deter- mined by visual comparison to a set of GIA certified master diamonds of known color. In na- ture, the color of a diamond is caused by trace amounts of dif- ferent impurities. Nitrogen, for example, is the 'impurity' that causes a yellowish tint." She explains that the appearance of a tint is shown on the GIA color scale which runs alphabetically from "D" through "Z." D col- ored diamonds have no trace of impurities leaving it colorless and making it one of the rarest occurrences in nature. Subsequently, a diamond's price and value is therefore based on its rarity which is grad- ed on the color scale. Since col- or is typically not obvious in the first seven grades on the scale (D through J) it is the choice for discerning buyers. Schuring ex- plains, "Buyers should be most concerned with a diamond's appearance. The exact color of a white diamond is determined by comparing an ungraded di- amond against certified master diamonds that have been graded by either of the major diamond labs: Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the Ameri- can Gem Society (AGS). The whiter the diamond, the rarer it is. The very whitest gems in both grading scales are named colorless—perfectly clear like a drop of water or ice." Subsequently, the cut of a diamond is the most misun- derstood and underestimated indicator. To layman, the cut of a diamond is often confused with the shape of the diamond. However, the cut is referred to as the "make" or quality of the way the diamond has been crafted and is the only indicator that is entirely manipulated by the diamond cutter. Mark Eilers from Sidney Thomas explains that the cut is the human con- tribution to a diamond's beau- ty—the facet arrangement, the proportion, and finish. The pa- vilion depth, the distance from the bottom of the girdle to the culet, can significantly affect how light reacts through a di- amond. Buyers do not want a stone with a pavilion depth that is too shallow or too deep because it will allow light to es- cape from the side of the stone or leak out of the bottom. It is important to select a stone with a cut that will direct more light through the crown. "Diamond cutters have to choose between optimum beauty and retaining maximum weight," Eilers says. "A well-proportioned diamond will create a pleasing display of brilliance, sparkle, and fire." The third indicator of a dia- mond's value is its carat weight. Eilers explains, "A carat is ac- tually a measure of weight, with the name derived from carob seeds that were used as a rea- sonably uniform measure of size and weight in the ancient world. One carat is 1/5 of a gram, so it takes nearly 142 carats to equal one ounce." Assuming all other C's are equal, a diamond's price will increase as the carat weight becomes larger. Although larg- er diamonds are rarer and tend to be more desirable, buyers should keep in mind that even a small difference in carat weight can sometimes result in a sig- nificant variation in cost. The last indication of a qual- ity diamond is its clarity. The clarity of a diamond refers to the visual impact of the stone when viewed under 10x loupe magnification. It is important to remember that during crystal- lization, almost every diamond contains some form of blemish. "A diamond's clarity scale con- sists of 11 grades from Flawless to Imperfect 3. The first seven or eight grades look identical to the naked eye. It is therefore not likely that even trained ob- servers could tell them apart without a microscope," Schur- ing says. There are many dif- ferent types of inclusions which can affect a diamond's appear- ance: feathers, crystals, clouds, etc. Although this is the case, it is important that the inclusions are not visible to the naked eye and do not interfere with light return (brilliance). She advises that buyers should look for the most dynamic diamond with no visible flaws. It depends on the size, number, and location of these inclusions when deter- mining the clarity grade. A di- amond specialist can show you how some inclusions may affect the beauty and durability of the diamond while others do not. Additionally, Yale Zolands from Zoland Custom Diamond Jewelry in New York City says that the first things a consumer should do is look at the stone with his/her eye, top and side, making sure that there are no bothersome imperfections visi- ble. He suggests that, whatever the grade, the stone must look pleasing. Zolands adds, "The key things that I pay attention to, beyond the obvious color and clarity, are depth percent- age and fluorescence." 1 2 3 4 COLOR CUT CARAT CLARITY VUE ON FASHION V U E N J . C O M 26

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