VUE

still go out for special occasions. It's really nice to be casual, the world is very casual now, but there's times that you want a more refined experience. at's what we try to do." From the moment you walk into Restaurant Nicholas, you can instantly identify this refined experience Harary refers to. e vibe, while upscale, evokes the serenity of a spa-like atmosphere, one where the tuna crudos and suckling pig flow like wine. e decor is clean, vibrant and though that may come across as old school to some, it's contemporary in its own right. While Restaurant Nicholas' ambiance bridges the gap between fine dining's past and present, its best asset is still its sophisticated cuisine. e food itself definitely pays homage to the intricacies of fine dining, and Harary and Chef Kevin Koller don't bother with the segment's deconstruction fad. Instead, portions at Restaurant Nicholas are where they should be, full and filling, but not obnoxiously robust. Diners have several options when visiting Restaurant Nicholas, beginning with a choice between a standard three-course or a six- course chef 's tasting menu (with an optional four-course garden menu for vegetarians). e kitchen also features a chef 's table which, when reserved, can be craed to your party's personal taste. In addition to this, the restaurant's bar room comes with its selections. Harary and Koller work in tandem to produce new and exciting menu items that reflect the changing seasons, while some dishes like the suckling pig remain a staple year-round. Chef Koller, who started as a line cook at Restaurant Nicholas six years ago, worked his way through the ranks and was recently promoted to chef de cuisine. An Ocean Township native, he spent time aer culinary school at Crystal Springs' well-known fine dining venue, Restaurant Latour. Today, Koller feels at home at Restaurant Nicholas and describes his style as "refined comfort" and is tailoring the new menu to echo this. "ese guys taught me everything I know. I've worked under two chefs here and taken the best from both of them—from classical French to comfort food," Chef Koller said. During my visit to Restaurant Nicholas this spring, I worked my way through a few of their most notable dishes. Beginning with appetizers, it's hard not to lean towards the seafood when you're going to a venue that's known for it. Starters kicked off with citrus- cured fluke with charred pineapple and chili. e citrus gave the dish fresh tang, reminiscent of an elevated ceviche with the pineapple and chili balancing out the vinegar taste—a dish Chef Koller was inspired to make aer a discussion with a local food runner. roughout the season, the pan-seared scallops, which come right from Barnegat, served with cipollini onion and bacon jam have been one of the business' biggest sellers. But of the starters I sampled, the real star was the cavatelli pasta with pickled enoki mushrooms and fontina cheese. It had that perfect flavor profile you look for in a cavatelli dish but it was pleasantly lighter than most. When it comes to mains, the bourbon-braised suckling pig is reason enough for a return visit. A signature of Restaurant Nicholas for years, the pig is braised for 12 hours, removed from the skin, removed from the bone, then re-pressed back onto the skin and seared until crispy. e dish is usually served with Parisienne apples, toasted pecans and a little maple jus for a finishing sauce. However, the excitement really begins with the creativity of Restaurant Nicholas' seasonal dishes. Most notably the Moroccan-spiced Colorado lamb lion, which is served with Greek yogurt (for a little bit of tartness), spiced V U E N J . C O M 113

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